Development of a powerful tool for investigation over the structure and functionality of aqueous phase of cosmetic formulations: computer modeling, stressed epidermal in-vitro and in-vivo efficacy tests in osmotic protection strategy

The continuous research for new, highperforming ingredients is one of the most difficult hurdles facing cosmetic companies. Sometimes, a more in-depth investigation on the structures composing the apparently homogeneous phases of cosmetic preparations is required. This could allow a precise understanding of some hidden molecular behavior. This paper describes an innovative approach for the identification of skin-effective raw materials. It is based on the combined pplication of in silico analysis of molecular dynamics followed by a new in vitro model for studying the skin recovery from stress. This new pathway was adopted to better understand the molecular structure of the aqueous phase of cosmetics containing osmotic protectants and their mechanism of interaction with the protein moieties when some type of stress conditions is applied.